Priceless Pearls
Like all the other states of India, Andhra Pradesh also has a rich cultural heritage. A variety of handicrafts and artistic tradition abound in the state of Andhrapradesh. Starting from the famous Hyderabad pearls, bidriware to brassware – Andhra Pradesh shines bright with its handicrafts traditions. Given below are details of some of the most prominent handicrafts of Andhra Pradesh.
Hyderabad, the capital city of the state,
today is the nerve center for pearl trade
in the country and is acclaimed as one of
the principal pearl markets in the world.
It all began with one man's fancy for this
exotic, lustrous marine gem. The Nizam of
the erstwhile State of Hyderabad, it is
said, had a great penchant for pearls. The
Asaf Jahi Nizams not only wore ropes of
pearls studded with diamonds as part of
State regalia but used the paste of crushed
pearls as beauty aids.
The princesses were covered with pearls and weighed against
them on their birthdays. Under their patronage,
pearl merchants from all over the country
flocked to Hyderabad and gradually the city
flourished as an important trading center
for pearls. For centuries, India was known
as a good market for pearls. According to
Megasthenes, the Greek historian and ambassador
to the court of Emperor Chandra Gupta Maurya,
"Indians prefer pearls to gold. A pearl
would sell for three times its equivalent
in gold." In those days the pearls
used to come from Basra in the Persian Gulf. But with the discovery of the oil, the pollution
at the sea increased leading to the near
extinction of the oysters in the Gulf and
decrease in the production of the natural
pearls. The vacuum for the pearls, thus
created, was soon filled with the advent
of cultured pearls. The technique of making
cultured pearls, which involves implanting
a foreign particle within the mother shell,
was invented by Kokichi Mikimoto of Japan
in 1893. A pearl being essentially the nacreous
layer and there being no difference between
such layers, both natural and cultured pearls
are 'real'. Except for the negligible yield
in the Gulf of Munnar, India does not produce
pearls. Nevertheless the inflow of pearls,
usually the cultured pearls from China and
Japan, in the Indian market is plenty. The
hub of India's flourishing pearl trade is
close to Charminar in Hyderabad where dealers
sell mostly imported pearls after refining
them. The dexterity of the local craftsmen
and jewelers, inherited through generations,
and the availability of cheap labor have
established Hyderabad in the world market.
It is the expert processing and grading
of the gem in which Hyderabad specializes.
Drilling a hole is the most skilled job
in the process, as each pearl has to be
pierced with a needle individually. In Chandampet
village about 500 families have been drilling
pearls for generations. The drilled pearls
with a tint of pink, cream, or gray are
sorted out and treated separately as they
are precious. The rest are boiled for several
days and then cured in airtight bottles
filled with cleansing agents and exposed
to sunshine. The pearls are thereby bleached
and assume their natural sheen. These are
then washed, dried, and graded by experienced
men according to shape, size and luster-the
factors deciding their value. |