Shopping for handicrafts in Madhya Pradesh is a classic experience. Almost everywhere in the State there is a dual choice-between old bazaars where shops �specialise� in offering certain items, and modern streamlined shopping centres which tend to stock a �cosmopolitan� range of goods.

The older shopping centres in Madhya Pradesh have retained the lingering ambience of a bygone age. There is a hustle and bustle in the teeming bazaars and narrow bylanes but once inside a shop, the trader or shopkeeper displays an abundance of courtesy without a mite of impatience as one goes through the wares haggling and bargaining.

Bhopal

The Chowk, which forms the heart of the old city, is a fascinating shopping centre. Old mosques and havelis around the area are reminders of a splendid past while the shops in the narrow alleyways are the storehouses of traditional crafts that entice the shoppers. You can also get delicately embroidered cushions and velvet purses, exquisite silver jewellery and exotic zari borders out here.

And if you have time only for a quick shopping spree, head towards the modern, streamlined shopping centre at the New Market in TT Nagar. The Madhya Pradesh State Emporium with its range of handicrafts at fixed prices is situated here.

Indore The city of Indore is a shopper�s delight. Its oldest market, the Maharaja Tukuganj Cloth Market, popularly known as MT Market, has a range of fabrics that could warm the heart of a princess. The famous Maheshwari saris with their distinctive borders and the prized Chanderi saris can be found here. Brocades and zari work in a host of designs charm the senses.

Jail Road and the Top Khana rank as the second oldest markets in Indore. Smocking done at nearby Mhow can be found here, along with an assortment of handicrafts that range from the odd tribal mementos to utilitarian papier-m�ch� articles, terracotta pieces and wood-carved objects.

The old market at Rajwara has a predominance of traditional fabrics, while the Bara Sarafa and the Chotta Sarafa offer an impressive array of jewellery. The Madhya Pradesh State Emporium is located on M.G. Road.

Ujjain

In the holy city of Ujjain, near Indore, beautifully carved objects such as penholders, glasses, plates, images of gods and goddesses are carved in stone with delicate hues ranging from pale green to rich, creamy brown. These can be bought along with papier-m�ch� articles, lacquerware, and beadwork from the numerous stalls and shops outside the Mahakal Temple and in the small bazaar at Ujjain.

Gwalior

Perhaps the oldest bazaars in Madhya Pradesh are in Gwalior. In the lanes near the Chowk at Bara, shopkeepers claim a lineage that dates back several centuries. Chanderi saris can be found here, along with choice fabrics with a traditional weave. The shops near Rajwara and Laskar, particularly at Patankar Bazaar, offer a mix of arts and crafts that are native to Gwalior. These include dolls, lacquerware, hand-woven carpets, wall hangings in the Gwalior style of painting, jewellery and crafts from other centres in Madhya Pradesh.